1680D Nylon

1680 Denier means 1680 grams of yarn per 9000 m length

1680D Polyester

1680 Denier means 1680 grams of yarn per 9000 m length

190T Polyester

A 190T material is woven from yarns with a yarn weight of 70D (Denier). The total woven thread count in the warp and weft directions is approximately  190 per square inch.

1x1 Rib

In 1x1 rib, right-hand stitches alternate with left-hand ones. This results in a flexible fabric that has the same appearance on both sides.

210D Polyester

210 Denier means 210 grams of yarn per 9000 m length

3M Thinsulate ™

3M Thinsulate ™ is a trademark of the 3M Corporation for a heat-insulating fleece fabric made from artificial fibres, used primarily as an inlay padding for clothing, e.g. in gloves or winter jackets. The term derives from the words thin & insulate. The material was originally marketed in 1979.

300D Polyester

300 Denier means 300 grams of yarn per 9000 m length.

420D Polyester

420 Denier means 420 grams of yarn per 9000 m length.

600D HD-Polyester

600 Denier means 600 grams of yarn per 9000 m length.

600D Polyester

600 Denier means 600 grams of yarn per 9000 m length.

70D Nylon

70 Denier means 70 grams of yarn per 9000 m length.

A

AC-coated

Acrylic coating to make the fabric water-repellent.

Acrylic

Light-weight synthetic fibres with properties similar to those of wool: high durability, heat retention, very low moisture absorption, colour fastness.

Antipilling

An antipilling finishing reduces pilling, lint and fluff.

B

Balaclava hood

A hood that covers the head and neck, usually only leaving the eyes visible.

Bartack

Decorative finish stitching in the form of a narrow, elongated short seam.

Bartack stitch

The bartack stitch is used for reinforcing areas under additional stress, such as pocket corners and openings, belt loops, and zips. It consists of a series of close zigzag stitches that run several times from front to back.

Batik

Dyeing technique in which knots are tied into a fabric to produce artistic light and dark colour gradients.

Belcoro® yarn

High-quality and environmentally efficient material, manufactured and processed by Fruit of the Loom in its own production.

Bioactive fabric

Bioactive fabrics are odour-inhibiting, antibacterial, quick-drying and heat-resistant. Silver ions are blended into the fabric, which are not emitted to the skin and cannot be washed out. The freshness effect therefore remains permanently in the fabric.

Belcoro® Garn

Hochwertiges und umwelteffizientes Material, welches in Eigenproduktion von Fruit of the Loom hergestellt und verarbeitet wird.

Bionic® finish

Unique, patented material handling for environmentally friendly PFD-free impregnation and sealing.

Bird-eyelet mesh

Light, elastic polyester material with moisture and temperature regulation.

Blended fabric

Blended fabrics are fabrics that are made from at least two different types of fibre (natural and/or artificial). Blended fabrics combine the positive characteristics of both components. In comparison with the materials used (in pure form), they represent a cost-effective compromise in relation to their properties, wearer comfort, and appearance. Care of a blended fabric should always be based on the most sensitive fibre component.

Blind stitch

A blind stitch denotes a seam that is invisible. It may also be encountered as a 'magic stitch'.

Bonded fleece

Bonded fleece consists of one layer of fleece that is joined to another layer of fleece (or sweat fabric or softshell). This makes the fleece material even warmer and more sturdy.

Bonding

Bonding denotes a permanent join between two different textiles brought about by heat, hot-melt adhesive, or another water-resistant adhesive.

Bootcut fit

Bootcut is a trouser fit that emphasises the body contours on the upper thigh and flares from the knee downwards.

Box pleat

A box pleat is a pleat made up of small, densely packed folds.

Branding

Branding is the affixing of a brand mark to a product.

Breathable

Describes a textile that transports moisture away from the body, thus hindering the loss of heat through damp or wet clothing.

Breathable coating

A coating applied directly to the textile, generally polyester or polyamide, that makes fabrics breathable or permeable to water vapour, such that they prevent sweat from being transported from the body through the clothing.

Breathable membranes

In a similar way to breathable coatings, these membranes render a fabric permeable to moisture, thus enabling sweat to be transported away from the body though the garment. From outside to inside, a membrane-coated fabric is resistant to wind and/or water.

Brushed

Brushed fabric is roughened on the inside.

Burnout

Burnout is a transparent printing effect produced on a blended fabric material.

Button-down collar

A button-down collar is soft and has no stiffeners. The tips of the collar are buttoned to the front of the shirt.

C

Cadet collar

A cadet collar is another term for a stand-up collar.

Chain stitch

The chain stitch is one of the most important stitches in embroidery for sewing together two fabrics. The needle is inserted next to the exit point to form a loop. The loop is used to form a new exit point. This results in a loop chain formation.

Canvas

Also known as trellis cloth, this is a robust and wide-meshed trellis-like cotton fabric.

Caoutchouc

Caoutchouc (Indian: cao = tree; ochu = tear) is a term for an elastic polymer from which rubber is produced. It is composed mainly of the polymer cis-1,4 polyisoprene.

Cap sleeve

Cap sleeves are very wide sleeves. Also known as capped sleeves.

Chino

Chino ist ein leichter Baumwollstoff, der häufig für Hosen oder Röcke verwendet wird. Er ist feiner gewebt als Jeansstoff.

Carded cotton

Carded cotton is a fibre mat. The product is created in the pre-combing process. The fibre tufts that are in a random orientation are combed using a special spinning (carding) machine so as to detach the unordered tufts from the raw cotton and remove any impurities.

Casual fit

Casual fit denotes a fit designed for leisure use.

Chambray

Chambray is a light cotton or linen fabric with a coloured weft in plain weave, often employed in outer garments and shirt materials.

Chiffon

Chiffon is a delicate fabric made of silk or chemical fibre with a crepe, veil-like surface. Thin longitudinal grooves give the surface an irregular appearance.

Chino

Chino is a light cotton material that is often used for trousers or skirts. It is woven more finely than jeans fabric.

Circular knitted cotton

The production of circular-knotted cotton involves making cotton yarns into a tubular shape using a special circular knitting machine. As the knitting needles have a circular arrangement, the result is an endless circular knit. This has the advantage that no side seams are needed when tailoring the garment (e.g. with T shirts).

Circular knit

See Circular knitted cotton.

Coated

A material may be coated to give it a shiny surface.

Cocktail cuffs

A cocktail cuff is a two-button cuff. The buttons are sometimes covered by a second layer of material. It is also known as a Neapolitan cuff.

Cold dye

A dyeing technique in which garments are roughly tailored; the cold dye is only applied subsequently, following sewing. The effect is an oil-like or soiled appearance. The areas around the seams are not dyed through, and hence remain lighter. Also referred to as "oil dyed", "old dye", "cool dye", "oil washed", "cool washed" and "cold washed".

Colour separation

Colour separation involves extracting, by means of a computer, up to 13 separate colours from an image that would normally be printed in a four-colour set. This enables faithful image reproduction on textiles. Separation printing is frequently employed with dark textiles.

Combed cotton

Combed cotton is a cotton with a particularly clear and smooth weave pattern that is created by means of an additional combing process, in which short fibres are combed out and as a result, the long fibres take on a more parallel orientation.

Control Union certification

The Control Union is an independent, globally operating certification organisation that works towards unified and systematic labelling of sustainable products and production methods (e.g. GOTS, Naturland and Fair Trade criteria). To this end, it conducts testing, supervision, evaluation, inspection and certification activities.

Cordura

Cordura is a registered trademark of the Swiss Invista company. Cordura is a fabric made of polyamide fibres and is used to produced highly hard-wearing textiles. It is more tear-resistant than nylon and is often used in the manufacture of safety clothing, bags and rucksacks.

Cotton

Plant-based textile fibre that is extremely gentle on the skin, soft, non-felting, hard-wearing, moisture absorbent, heat-resistant, and easy to clean. Typical cotton fabrics are, for example, batiste, flannelette, damask, velvet and macro satin.

Cotton blend

Cotton bend is a mixture of cotton and polyacrylic yarns. The multiple advantages combine the temperature-balancing nature of cotton with the resistant nature of the synthetic fibre.

Cotton canvas

Very firm, sturdy and robust cotton fibre that is generally used in accessories, e.g. bags and shoes. In dry condition, canvas is breathable and wind-resistant. Canvas is also sometimes referred to as trellis cloth, a robust, wide-meshed, trellis-like cotton fabric.

Cotton melange

Mottled cotton, a cotton fabric produced from fibres of different colours, resulting in a multihued effect.

Cotton taffeta

Cotton taffeta has fine transverse ribs on the top side of the product that are formed from densely woven warp threads. The effect is even more pronounced when particularly fine warp threads are used. When certain raw materials are used or by applying retrospective finishing, the weave takes on a shiny surface.

Cotton touch

Cotton touch denotes textiles that have a cotton-like feel.

Cross dyeing

Cross dyeing creates a yarn thread effect. This results from the use of fibres with different colouring properties.

Cut and sew

Cut and sew products are garments that are tailor-made from raw materials. They are hence not mass-produced articles.

Cutaway collar

A cutaway collar is a fashionably high collar with widely spread wings (also known as a shark collar).

D

Denier

Denier is a unit for indicating yarn count. The following applies: 1 den = 1 gram per 9000 metres.

Denim

Denim is largely used for jeans fashion. It is a highly durable cotton fabric. Clothing made from denim is given a fashionable look through different washing procedures.

Dip-dye effect

The dip-dye effect is created by a dyeing process in which textiles are given individual, flowing colour gradients through being dipped in dye.

Double chain stitch

The double chain stitch is used to sew up particularly tough materials, e.g. jeans. The seam consists of two threads and looks like a chain from the bottom. This stitch is also used for decorative seams.

Double seam

The double seam, also known as French seam, is used to sew up particularly thin fabrics such as silk. The seam allowances are no longer visible with this type of seam.

DuPont™ Sorona®

Dupont Sorona is a versatile, functional and heavy-duty polyester fibre made of renewable resources developed by the US chemical company DuPont for creating functional textiles. In addition to function, DuPont focused particularly on sustainability. The fibres are most frequently used for the production of outdoor textiles, carpets and car interiors.

E

Egyptian cotton

A particularly high-quality and hard-wearing cotton due to the large number of fibres.

Elastane

Elastane is a synthetic elastic fibre. It improves both the fit and the comfort of a garment, as it is extremely stretchable, easy to maintain, and retains its shape.

Elastolefin

Elastolefin denotes a fibre that that is composed of at least 95 percent macromolecules by weight. It is made up of ethylene and at least one further olefin. These fibres can be stretched to a great degree and return to their initial condition once the stretch force is relaxed.

EN 1150:1999

The EN 1150 standard provides more details for the private use of reflective material. Wearers of clothing that fulfils these standards benefit from improved visibility under all light conditions.

EN 13356

EN 13356 is a standard that specifies the optical performance and surface requirements of accessories for non-professional use. Accessories that fulfil these standards make the wearer more easily recognisable when illuminated by vehicle lighting on dark roads.

EN 343

EN 343 sets out the requirements of protective clothing against rain, wind and temperatures below -5°C. The standard determines such factors such as heat insulation, water repellency, water vapour penetration resistance, breathability, and garment component strengths.

EN 471

This was replaced by EN ISO 20471.

EN ISO 20345:2011

EN ISO 20345:2011 is a standard for classifying safety shoes.

EN ISO 20471:2013

EN ISO 20471 consists of a series of requirements for high-visibility clothing for professional use in the workplace. Until October 2013, this was regulated by EN471, but since June 2013, it has been replaced by the new EN ISO 20471.

EN71 (EU Toy Safety Standard)

EN 71 is a toy safety standard. The standard applies to all manufacturers and dealers throughout Europe.

EN812

EN 812 classifies the so-called bump cap. According to EN 812, a bump cap is a special type of head protector that closes the gap between the building helmet/protective helmet and sun protector (e.g. peaked cap).

Enzyme treated cotton

Enzymes are organisms that have a variety of effects. Some of them are able to disintegrate the sizing agents that play an important role in the weaving process after the textile manufacture. Another type of enzyme is used to create grip variations on cotton fabrics (e.g. the stonewash effect). Yet another enzyme type is able to disintegrate some colouring agents used in dyed fabrics so as to produce new colour effects.

Enzyme treatment

Cotton or yarns are treated with enzymes so as to give them a higher quality. Enzyme-treated cotton is meanwhile a permanent fixture in the field of textile finishing. Enzymes can be regenerated, which means that fewer waste products are created. This renders the use of microorganisms in the textile-processing industry harmless, even from an ecological perspective.

Enzyme washed

See enzyme treatment.

Enzyme washing

See enzyme treatment.

Epaulettes

Epaulettes are the shoulder pieces of a uniform.

European Directive 89/686/EEC

The European Directive 89/686/EEC classifies the use of personal protection equipment at work.

EVA

Ethylene-vinyl acetate copolymers (EVAC) are copolymers made from ethylene and vinyl acetate. This is a plastic with a good heat resistance and high resistance against ageing. With a proportion of vinyl acetate of between 30% and 90%, the resulting elastomer resembles caoutchouc. This is primarily used in the production of shoe soles.

F

Fair Wear

The Fair Wear Foundation is an alliance of several companies (including dealers, producers, non-governmental organisations and others). They monitor each other and undertake to adhere to standards. Unlike Fair Trade products, the Fair Wear Foundation is not subject to external inspection.

Fairtrade / Fair Trade Siegel

The Fairtrade label denotes goods that are produced with due adherence to certain social, ecological and economic criteria. These products thus originate from fair trading. Fairtrade connects customers with companies and producer organisations. It is transforming trade by creating better prices for smallholder families and instilling humane working conditions for employees in plantations in developing and emerging countries.

Fashion fit

Fashion fit denotes a fit that is in line with current trends.

Felt

Felt is a firm textile structure composed of natural and artificial fibres that are interwoven with each other in the felting process.

Fishbone

Fishbone denotes a special kind of weaving. The weave takes on a diagonal structure that resembles a fish skeleton (see also Herringbone).

Fitted cut

The term 'Fitted Cut' denotes a fit that is cut somewhat more narrowly, but not as tightly as a slim fit.

Flame yarn

This is a special effect yarn with intervallic bulges. It is a fantasy yarn with shorter or longer reinforced thread sections in the form of a flame, which in some cases may be of a different colour. The yarn is produced on a roving carding machine by adding roving or fabric residues to the base material, but is also produced on an effect twisting machine in such a way that a roving or a yarn of a particular length is twisted into two threads in an interrupted work sequence.

Flannel

Classic flannel is made from wool. Flannel has a softer and more absorbent character than other fabrics and is very warm despite its rather low weight.

Flat knit

Flat knit frequently refers to knitted pullovers and jackets that are produced by machine. A flat knit machine is used for mechanical knitting and for fast production of knitted textiles.

Flatlock

A flatlock is a type of decorative seam. It is very suitable for narrow fitting clothing, as there is no seam allowance.

Fleece

Fleece is a velour fabric that is usually made from polyester. Fleece is very soft, light, breathable, easy to clean, quick-drying and has good heat insulation.

Fluorescent

A fluorescent substance emits light from itself.

French Terry

The term French Terry denotes a very firm jersey material that has a cotton content of approx 95 %. It has a soft nap on the inside and the outside is brushed.

Full twist rib

Full twist rib is produced when several fine-fibre yarns are twisted together for the warp and weft threads prior to weaving. Rib is highly stretchable and has a lower material density than interlock.

G

Garment wash

The garment wash process reduces the risk of shrinking and gives the product a soft feel and a slightly washed-out appearance.

Gauge

Gauge is a unit of measurement. It is used to specify the fineness of a textile product based on the mesh count. The higher the gauge number, the finer the product.

GO/RT 3279

GO/RT 3279 is a standard defining the minimum requirements for high visibility protective clothing.

GOTS

GOTS is the Global Organic Textile Standard, a global standard for textile processing. It is used for textiles made of organic natural fibres, which meet environmental requirements with regard to their production chain as well as certain social criteria.

H

Half-moon seam

A half-moon seam is crescent-shaped stitching that runs over the back, from shoulder to shoulder.

Half-moon yoke

A half-moon yoke is piece of fabric attached to the back, running from shoulder to shoulder.

Heavy cotton

Heavy cotton is made from very thick cotton fibres that are closely knit; it is often used in cotton knits.

Heavyweight cotton

Heavyweight cotton is generally regarded as cotton that has a weight per unit area of over 260 h/m². It is frequently employed in work clothing used in heavy-duty applications, such as outdoors or on building sites.

Herringbone

Herringbone is also referred to as fishbone. It denotes a special type of weave that results in a diagonal structure resembling a fish skeleton.

Holster pocket

A holster pocket is a trouser pocket fashioned on work trousers. It is intended for keeping such items as tools, screws, nails, etc. in. The holster pocket also serves to keep the wearer's hands free while maintaining all important items within easy reach.

Hydrafort polyester

Hydrafort polyester is a material that is both water-resistant and wind-resistant. It provides reliable protection against the elements in outdoor areas.

I

Iindanthren dyed

Indanthren is a synthetically produced vat dye. Indanthren-dye fibres are particularly resistant to washing, boiling, light, weather and chlorine.

Indigo dye

Indigo is a deep blue dye.

Interlock

The term “interlock” is used for knitted fabrics, which look identical on both sides, as two fine rib fabrics are connected with each other. This means only right stitches are visible. The left stitches are on the inside and therefore hidden. This creates a warming, stretchy, smooth fabric surface. Laddering is almost entirely impossible.

Isotex 5000

Isotex is a waterproof, breathable, wind-proof membrane that is particularly suitable for outdoor use. Different versions, which focus on different weather protection properties, are available. The Isotex 5000 membrane is completely waterproof up to a water column height of 5000 mm.

Italian collar

An Italian collar is also referred to as cutaway or shark collar. This is a fashionable high collar with wide spread wings.

J

Jacquard

Jacquard is a term used for fabrics with artistic woven patterns. These may be silk, viscose, wool or synthetic. The best-known Jacquard fabrics are: Brocade, matelassé and damask. Each of them have different patterning properties.

Jersey (Single & Stretch)

Jersey (Single & Stretch) is the term used for a cotton jersey fabric, a knitted fabric with a mat surface, which is different from its underside. Jersey is a finely knitted, elastic, breathable fabric that feels particularly soft on skin.

Jersey

Jersey is a knit fabric that is stretchy and soft and has a slightly ribbed structure. Jersey is often used for underwear and women's fashion.

Jute

Jute is a natural fibre and therefore completely biodegradable. This natural fibre is also called “the golden fibre” because of its golden, silky gloss.

K

Kent collar

The Kent collar is also known as wing collar or turndown collar. It is mainly used on men’s shirts. It consists of a large turndown collar with long flaps and a button.

Kevlar®

As Kevlar, an aramid fibre, is very hard, tear-proof, flexible and temperature-resistant, it is frequently used for bullet-proof vests, cut-proof gloves, fire protection clothing, tyre reinforcements, asbestos-free brake pads, fibre-optic cables, special ropes, aircraft parts, skis, trampolines, tennis rackets and hard hats. It is lighter yet stronger than steel.

Kimono collar

The kimono collar originates in Asia. It is rather rigid and therefore maintains its beautiful shape and sticks out slightly at the back of the neck.

Knop yarn

Knop yarn is a fancy yarn with thick sections (knops / knots) at a specific spacing, which are created during the spinning process. The finished fabric is often used as knopped fabric for producing women’s dresses.

L

Ladies' zip

In many ladies' garments, the zip is placed on the left-hand side, while for gents' items it is on the right. The same applies to buttons.

Linen

Linen and wool are among the fabrics that have been in use the longest. Linen was already being produced over 6000 years ago. It is naturally antibacterial, virtually antistatic, dirt-repellent, and able to absorb up to 35% air humidity without itself feeling damp. In addition, linen has both cooling and warming properties. Linen has a natural sheen, but it is also very susceptible to creasing.

Long fibrous cotton

The 10-18-millimetre-long seed hairs of the cotton plant are the most commonly used raw material in the textile industry all over the world. In contrast, only very few plants are able to produce seed hairs that are over 28 millimetres long. The fabric that is made from these is much more hard-wearing, softer and of a finer quality than normal cotton.

Long staple cotton

The staple length is a measure of the length of the individual cotton fibres. It is an important quality criterion. The longer a fibre is, the finer and more elegant the final product will be. The staple is the average length of all the fibres contained in a sample. Cotton with a staple length of 27.6 mm to 33.7 mm is determined to be particularly fine and tear-resistant.

Loose fit

A loose fit denotes a casual type of cut.

Low twist yarn

To increase a yarn's strength and durability, it is twisted during the spinning process. Low twist yarn can only be made with longer coloured staple fibres. As there is more air and space between the individual fibres, low twist yarn is particularly soft and absorbent.

Lycra® fibre

LYCRA® is a brand name for an elastane made by INVISTA. The fibre is so elastic that it can be stretched to between four and seven times its original length. As soon as the tension is released, it returns to its original condition. Garments in which LYCRA fibres have been incorporated benefit from enhanced wearer comfort, form stability and good recovery from crumpling.

Lyocell

In the production of Lyocell fibres, the cellulose is detached directly and spun. The solvent can be almost completely reused. The first Lyocell fibre to come onto the market had the brand name Tencel. Textiles made from Lyocell fibres display a smooth, cool touch with a flowing fall. In addition, they have a low tendency to crease and can be washed and even subjected to dry chemical cleaning.

M

Mandarin collar

The mandarin collar originates in Asia. It is a straight standing collar.

Martindale test

The Martindale test is used to test the resistance of a fabric against abrasion. The tested fabric is rubbed against a standard fabric for a faster simulation of natural wear. The number of abrasion cycles (unit of measurement: Martindale) to the end of the test is counted. The test ends when 2 threads of the tested fabric have ripped or visibly dissolved. This means that the higher the number of rotations is, the more abrasion-resistant the fabric is.

mat

"Mat” refers to a mat coating (for pantone colours).

Medium fit

Medium fit is a fit that is neither particularly loose nor particularly tight fitting.

Mercerised cotton

Cotton textiles are frequently mercerised after bleaching. Mercerising causes the bean-shaped fibres to swell and become round. The round shape reflects light evenly and gives the fabric a soft feel. Mercerised cotton has a particularly fine gloss and absorbs dyes more readily.

Mesh

Mesh is a unit of measurement for the mesh width. Mesh is also used as a term for an air-permeable netting fabric that is frequently used for large advertising prints, ice hockey jerseys and baseball caps, but nowadays also has applications in the textile industry.

Micro fibre

Micro fibre is a high-tech fibre. In most cases, micro fibre is made of polyester. Micro fibre is a fabric consisting of millions of microscopically fine fibres. These allow practically no wind or rain to pass through. However, moisture in the form of steam can evaporate easily through the fabric.

Microfibre

Microfibre is a high-tech fibre. In the majority of cases, microfibre is made from polyester. Microfibre is a fabric composed of millions of microfine fibres that offer great resistance to the penetration of wind and rain. Vaporous body moisture is, however, easily able to evaporate through the fabric.

Micro fleece

Micro fleece is thinner, finer and of a higher quality than conventional fleece. It consists of many fine fibres, between which a warm air cushion forms, ensuring a balanced body climate: it is wind- and water-repellent yet highly breathable. As micro fleece is particularly light-weight, it is highly suitable for function layers in sportswear. Micro fleece is of a higher quality than conventional fleece and is, as a rule, pilling-free.

Micro fleece

Unlike conventional fleece, micro fleece is generally pilling-free, as it is thinner, finer and of a higher quality. Micro fleece is wind and water-repellent but nevertheless breathable. This makes the material ideal for sportswear, e.g. as inner lining in outdoor jackets.

Micro piqué

Piqué is a fabric (usually made of cotton) consisting of alternating raised and lowered areas. This creates a quilted appearance. Micro piqué is piqué made of finer yarns and with a tighter grid.

Micro polyester

Micro polyester is a term used for ultra-fine yarn with individual fibres finer than 1.0 dtex (decitex). The unit of measurement 1.0 dtex means that 10,000 metres of yarn only weighs one gram. The light fibres make the fabric particularly supple and create a soft, flowing drape. Polyester micro fibres are used e.g. for washable imitation leather (Alcantara) or weather-proof fabrics.

Mitred V neck

A mitred V neck is a V neck with a pointed tip.

Mixed fabrics

Mixed fabrics are fabrics made of at least two types of fibres (natural and/or synthetic). Mixed fabrics combine the positive properties of the fabrics used. Compared to the materials in use (in their pure form) they are a low-cost compromise with regard to properties, comfort in wear and appearance. Mixed fabrics should always be cleaned based on the most sensitive fabric type.

Modal

Modal fibres are made of beech wood. They resemble viscose fibres. They are made of natural cellulose and have a cellulose content of 100 %. The advantages of modal fibres include high moisture absorption and quick drying.

Modern cut

Modern cut is simply a fashionable, modern cut.

Molton brushed

“Molton brushed” is a term used for specially roughened fabrics with a very soft interior.

Molton unbrushed

Mouliné yarn is made from twisting together a number of individual yarns of different colours.

Mouline yarn

Mouline yarn is a yarn made of individual threads with multiple different colours twisted together.

Mummy hood

A mummy hood is a tight-fitting hood, which leaves only the face uncovered.

N

Napped cotton

The smooth surface of fabrics is frequently turned into a hairy structure to increase its absorbency and heat insulation properties. The hairy structure is created using barbed hooks, with which ends of fibres are pulled out of the finished piece of fabric on its surface.

Natural rubber

Natural rubber, also called caoutchuc (Indian cao = tree; ochu = tear) is a term used for elastic polymers from which rubber is made. It mainly consists of the polymer cis-1,4 polyisoprene.

Necktape

A necktape is a tape integrated into a piece of clothing in the neck area to reinforce the fabric.

Neoprene

Neoprene is made of foamed synthetic rubber in a complicated process. The rubber is foamed and vulcanised in such a way that closed gas bubbles of the smallest possible size are created, which are evenly distributed across the material depth. These gas bubbles, not the rubber, create the thermal insulation effect.

New Kent collar

The New Kent collar is a collar with a slightly wider spread. It is not as wide as the shark collar, but not as pointed as the Kent collar.

Non-woven

Non-woven is a term used for fabrics which were not made into a fleece by a weaving process.

Nylon

Nylon is a particularly easy-care, durable synthetic fibre made of polyamide. It does not crease and dries quickly. This makes nylon the ideal material for sportswear and elegant fashion.

Nylon-taslan

Nylon-taslan is a fabric made of polyamide fibres. The polyamide fibre used is nylon. Nylon-taslan is extremely water-repellent and wind-proof.

O

OCS (Organic Content Standard)

The abbreviation OCS stands for Organic Content Standard. This standard inspects organic materials from the source to the final product and verifies the organic material content.

Oeko-Tex standard

The Oeko-Tex standard is an inspection system used for verifying the harmlessness of products from a human ecology standpoint. The standard evaluates whether textiles exceed limits of hazardous substances (heavy metals, pesticide residue, azo dyes, formaldehyde). Textiles which do not exceed these limits receive the Oeko-Tex standard 100 certificate.

Organic cotton

Certified cotton cultivated without pesticides and chemical fertilisers. The labels “organic” and “certified organic” or kbA (German label “from controlled organic cultivation”) are protected and may only be used if the directives for organic agriculture are obeyed.

Organic cotton

Organic cotton is cotton from controlled organic cultivation.

Ottoman

The term Ottoman is short for Ottoman weave. Ottoman is a ribbed fabric. It has pronounced longitudinal ribs created by multiple wefts made of wool or other fibres. Ottoman is frequently used for coats and dresses.

Overlock stitches

An overlock stitch is a stitch in which the upper thread is locked by the lower thread. This prevents the upper thread from slipping out of the seam. As the overlock stitch goes across the edge of the fabric, seams sewn with it are very neat and do not fray.

P

Peached

Peached textiles feel particularly soft (like the skin of a peach).

PEVA

PEVA is the abbreviation of poly ethylene vinyl acetate.

Pigment dye

(see pigment dyed)

Pigment dyed

Insoluble dyes are called pigments. Pigment dyes are dyes that have been turned into pigments. 50 % of textile printing worldwide is performed with pigment dyes. However, while pigment dyeing is suitable for all fibre types (natural and synthetic fibres), pigment dyes are rare. They are only used for light to medium shades. Their abrasion resistance is insufficient for dark shades.

Pilling test

The pilling test determines the pilling tendency of a fabric.

Pilling

Pilling is the formation of small knots on e.g. fleece due to abrasion.

Piping

Piping is a narrow border in the shape of a small bulge. Its colour usually contrasts with the surrounding fabric. It is used to decorate clothing on edges, seams and slits.

Piqué

Piqué Piqué is a fabric (usually made of cotton) consisting of alternating raised and lowered areas. This creates a quilted appearance.

Poly cotton blend

A poly cotton blend is a textile made of polyester and cotton.

Polyacrylic fibres

Polyacrylic fibres are industrial fibres. They resemble wool, are fluffy, very light-weight, easy to clean, light-fast and resistant to chemicals. Due to its ability to absorb moisture and allow it to pass through, this fibre is frequently used for sportswear.

Polyamide

Polyamide fibres are synthetic fibres which are lighter than silk, elastic, anti-crease, moth-proof and highly tear-proof even when wet. While polyamide is extremely abrasion-resistant and maintains its shape well, it is sensitive to contact with pressing irons, dryers, deodorant, bleach, stain remover and sunlight. In 1939, polyamide entered the US fashion market under the brand name nylon.

Polycarbonate

Polycarbonate (PC) is a thermoplastic material frequently used as glass alternative. Polycarbonate is transparent and colourless, but can be dyed. As polycarbonate is quite expensive, it is usually only used where other synthetic materials would be too soft, too fragile, too sensitive to scratching, insufficiently dimensionally stable or not transparent enough.

Polyester cotton touch

Polyester cotton touch is a synthetic fibre with the feel and appearance of cotton.

Polyester mesh

Polyester mesh is an air-permeable mesh fabric with a fine, semi-open pattern.

Polyester pongee

Polyester pongee is a weaving method that creates a very dense fabric. The fabric has the same properties on both sides and is characterised by a matt to semi-bright gloss.

Polyester twill

Polyester twill is an elastic woven material with a sophisticated structure.

Polyester

Polyester is a versatile synthetic fabric, which can be produced at low cost, allowing it to be used to make low-cost outerwear, underwear, etc. Other advantages of the fabric are that it is easy to clean and requires little ironing. Full colours remain vibrant for a long time and do not fade after repeated washing. On the other hand, it is less breathable than cotton.

Polyurethane

Polyurethane is a highly versatile, powerful synthetic material. It is used for the production of textiles, shoes, furniture, mattresses, medical devices, refrigerators, cars and insulation material.

Pongee

See polyester pongee

Poplin

Poplin is the term used for a fine-ribbed linen-woven fabric made of cotton or viscose yarn.

Pre-shrunk

Pre-shrunk clothing is clothing that shrinks less when washed.

Pre-shrunk

Pre-shrunk is a term for clothing that has undergone “shrinking pre-treatment”. Pre-shrunk clothing will not shrink any further when washed.

Pre-shrunk

Pre-shrunk is a term used for shrinking pre-treatment. Shrinking pre-treatment stops textiles from shrinking in the wash.

Pre-washed

Pre-washed textiles have reinforced seams and improved fibre absorbency. (Exception: Acrylic Color)

Princess seams

Princess seams are seams extending to the armholes on both sides of women’s jackets and dresses with a slight downward curve. This creates a figure-flattering, but not entirely formfitting silhouette. Princess seams are also used for men’s clothing. In this application, they are frequently used as a dividing seam in the backs of jackets.

PST (perfect sweat technology) by B&C

PST is a 3-thread fabric whose outside consists of fine cotton and whose inside consists of thicker polyester. Its advantages are a pleasant outside feel, good resistance to washing and an excellent anti-pilling function on the inside.

PU imitation leather

PU imitation leather is a type of imitation leather. It generally consists of a composite of a textile base and a synthetic cover layer.

PVC

PVC is short for polyvinyl chloride. This is a thermoplastic polymer created through chain-growth polymerisation from the monomer vinyl chloride. PVC plastics are divided into hard and soft PVC. Hard PVC is used e.g. for window profiles, tubes and vinyl records, while soft PVC is used for cable sheaths and flooring.

Q

Quilting seam

This is a straight seam that also runs straight in the bottom seam.

R

Racerback

The term racerback is used for clothing such as bras or tops with straps that come together at the top of the back between the shoulder blades. This cut is also often referred to as a swimmer back.

Raglan

The term raglan refers to a special sleeve cut. The sleeve seam is diagonal and extends very far toward the collar, i.e. the sleeve makes contact with the collar and includes the shoulder section.

Raw-cut

The term raw-cut refers to textiles with raw seams.

Raw-edge

Raw-edge refers to the cut edge.

Rayon

Rayon is an artificially produced fibre also referred to as viscose. As the fibre is made of the natural material cellulose, rayon is not so much a synthetic fibre but really a near-natural fibre.

Reactive dyeing

Yarns and fabrics made of wool, silk, cotton and viscose can be dyed through reactive dyeing. During the reactive dyeing process, the fabric reacts with the dye. This allows the dyes to remain more vibrant, but they can only be washed at max. 60°C and are not chlorine-fast.

Reactive dyes

Reactive dyes consist of a dyeing chromophore, one or several solubilising groups and one or several reactive anchors separated from the chromophore by bridge links. Some examples of reactive dyes are basilene, novacrone, lanasole, procione, remazole.

Regular fit

“Regular fit” is a regular, normal cut.

Retail fit

This cut and fit is adapted to the requirements of retail.

Rib knitting

Rib knitted fabrics are textiles whose structure is based on the traditional rib pattern. This pattern is characterised by an elongated rib structure. It is often used for hats, pullovers and cardigans.

Ribbed cotton

Ribbed cotton is cotton in which one or several right stitches alternate with the same or a different number of left stitches on one side of the product in a rod-shaped pattern. Ribbed textiles are particularly stretchy. The cuffs on sweatshirts are a particularly good example.

Ribbed fabric

Ribbed fabric is characterised by its great stretching properties and a lower material density than interlock. Ribbed fabric is highly elastic and therefore suitable for tight-fitting shirts. At the same time, it is a low-cost fabric. A distinction is made between 1:1 and 2:2 fabric. In 1:1 fabric, left and right stitches alternate, in 2:2 fabric two right and two left stitches alternate.

Ring-spun cotton

Ring-spun cotton is cotton made of ring-spun yarn. Ring-spun yarn is high-quality yarn with specific fibre qualities and lengths. The fibre quality is generated by a combing process, followed by stretching and twisting on a “ring spinning machine”. This results in a fine yarn.

Ripstop

Ripstop (nylon) fabrics are fabrics frequently used for tents, kites, paragliders, sails, backpacks and sportswear, because they are particularly tear-resistant. They are produced with a special weaving technique, in which thicker threads are integrated into the otherwise thin fabric at a spacing of approx. 5 to 8 millimetres. This gives the fabric a “graph paper structure”.

Rolled hem

The rolled hem is used to create clean hems in particularly thin fabrics.

S

S1P safety shoes

According to the German BG (Berufsgenossenschaft) regulation for occupational health and safety, work shoes can be categorised into a number of different standardised categories or protection classes. S1 safety shoes are suitable for use in areas in which no moisture impact is anticipated, while S1P boots are fitted with an additional, puncture-resistant insert to protect against the penetration of sharp or pointed objects.

Sanforised

Sanforisation is a washing process for textiles, the purpose of which is to deliberately bring about shrinkage, so as to avoid subsequent changes in the fabric's shape. Sanfor is a patented shrinking process. It guarantees that the textile has a maximum subsequent shrinkage of 1%.

Satin

Satin is a fabric that is produced in an Atlas weave, and is therefore also known as Atlas fabric. Satin is mainly used in the clothing industry. The typical satin sheen that varies according to the incidence of the light fall is created by the manufacturing process.

SBP protective boots

According to the German BG (Berufsgenossenschaft) regulation for occupational health and safety, work shoes can be categorised into a number of different standardised categories or protection classes. An SBP safety boot is a boot that not only complies with all basic requirements (SB) but also guarantees protection against puncturing (P).

Scoop neck

A scoop neck is very large round neck opening in the form of a U.

Scotchlite

3M Scotchlite is a reflective material made up of many small reflective glass beads. The material increases the safety of the wearer in darkness by making him visible up to a distance of up to 160 metres. It is employed, for instance, in emblems or decorative strips.

Sealed hem

A sealed hem is a folded and sewn fabric edge.

Semi-combed cotton

Semi-combed cotton is a cotton in which the processes of combing and smoothing of the fibres have not been carried out prior to spinning. Semi-combed cotton is therefore not as firm or uniform as combed cotton.

Shawl collar

A shawl collar is a rounded collar in which the upper section is joined to the lapel. Two shawl-like strips run from the rear back of the collar around the neck opening. They cross over at the front closure.

Shirt tail seam

A shirt tail seam is a round-cut seam that is higher at the sides.

Shrunk

Shrunk fabric is a textile that has been been treated such that it does not shrink further if it becomes wet.

Shoulder strip

Like the necktape, a shoulder strip is a strip integrated in the area between the shoulders to reinforce a textile.

Sailcloth

Sailcloth is a strong, densely woven fabric made from cotton or flax with a water-repellent impregnation.

Set-in sleeves

Set-in sleeves have a seam that runs over the shoulder.

Sheer Jersey

Sheer Jersey is an extremely thin jersey material.

Silicon washed

Silicon washed textiles are very soft to the touch. This is attained by adding silicones to the washing process. After a number of washings, the effect diminishes.

Silver finish

Silver finish denotes an antibacterial and odour-neutralising feature added to textiles.

Single jersey (see also: JERSEY)

Jersey refers to cotton jersey, a knitted fabric with a matt surface that is different to that of the underside. Jersey is a fine knitted fabric that is elastic, breathable, and extremely soft to the skin.

Slim fit

Slim fit garments have a narrow and close-fitting cut. Slim-fit articles are generally made of elastic material to allow them to sit closely on the body.

Slub (Jersey)

A slub is a thick spot in a yarn. Garments made of slub material are manufactured from flame yarns with elongated bulges at regular or irregular intervals.

Slub cotton

Slub cotton is cotton that displays thick points and other irregularities. These are frequently created deliberately by twisting the yarn or by weaving fibres of unequal widths. The result is a fabric with a rough and irregular quality.

Softshell

Soft shell textiles are made of an elastic fabric that guarantees maximum wearer comfort thanks to properties including wind resistance, breathability, and absolute water resistance. The outside of the fabric consists of 93% polyester with 7% elastane and an intermediate layer made of a breathable TPU membrane. The inside is made of microfleece, which ensures particularly good warming properties.

Sofspun® quality

Sofspun is a proprietary name of Fruit of the Loom. Fruit of the Loom uses it to denote a particularly soft cotton quality.

Softstyle®

Softstyle is a proprietary designation belonging to Gildan. Gildan uses it to denote a particularly soft cotton quality.

Spray print technique

Spray printing is a technique that makes it possible to apply patterns to fabrics.

Storm flap

A storm flap is a fabric strip that is placed behind the zip to keep out wind and water.

Stretch

Stretch is a highly elastic fabric.

Sublimation printing

Sublimation printing uses heat-sensitive ink to apply the desired motif to the garment. The advantage of this process is that the ink becomes incorporated in the structure of the base material, and so the print motifs themselves neither fade nor tear, even after several washings.

Symmetry fleece

Symmetry fleece is a material that is both comfortable and highly practical. It has antipilling properties, is quick drying and easy to clean, and is soft to the touch. Symmetry fleece is highly suitable for outdoor and lifestyle clothing.

T

Taffeta

Taffeta is a fabric with a subtle structure and a delicate silky sheen. It is particularly suitable for blouses, summer shirts, cloths and shawls, as it falls very loosely. Slight irregularities and a delicate pile give taffeta its unique charm.

Tailor fit

Tailor fit is a highly formfitting cut.

Tank top

A tank top is a sleeveless top (with straps).

Tear-away label

A tear-away label is a label that is easy to remove (tear away). Laundry instructions and information required by the textile labelling act are usually on the label in the side seam, which is not removed.

Teddy fleece

Teddy fleece is a particularly fluffy fleece.

Tencel®

Tencel is a particularly skin-friendly material. It can absorb up to 50 % more moisture than cotton. It dries quickly, ensuring perfect comfort in wear and an ideal body climate.

Terry cloth

"Terry cloth” is a fabric in which fancy or looping yarns are used to create a loop-like structure. However, the structure of conventional terry cloth has less volume and is not as soft as heavy terry cloth.

Thermoplastic

Thermoplastic material can be softened and moulded at higher temperatures without chemical modification.

Thinsulate®

Thinsulate is a trademark of the 3M Corporation used for a heat-insulating fleece made of synthetic fibres.

Tie-Fix©

The tie fix is an insert on the button panel of a shirt, which uses a loop on a tie to ensure that the tie remains in its position when the wearer bends over.

Tortoiseshell

Tortoiseshell is the shell of the tropical hawksbill sea turtle, which has been cut into thin sheets. Tortoiseshell is brown and transparent with a yellowish pattern. It is hard and brittle, but can be bent when carefully heated. Imitation tortoiseshell can be used to create the tortoiseshell appearance.

TPU membrane

TPU is short for thermoplastic polyurethane. Membranes are very thin films made of various polymers. These membranes can transport the water vapour molecules of sweat to the other side of the membrane. This means that they turn a textile breathable.

Transfer label

A transfer label is a printed label that can be pulled off and is usually attached at the neck of a piece of clothing. Laundry instructions and information required by the textile labelling act are usually on the label in the side seam, which is not removed.

Triblend

Triblend products use a fabrics made of three types of fibres, cotton, polyester and viscose. The word “triblend” means “blend made of 3 fibres”. This blend creates a mottled appearance. Compared with conventional mottled t-shirts, triblend shirts appear rougher. If the correct blending ratio is chosen, the fabric has positive properties: The shirts are soft and moisture exchange is guaranteed due to the high cotton content.

Tricot fabric

Tricot fabric is a knit fabric. During production of knitted fabrics, loops of thread are interlaced. Tricot fabric is stretchy and elastic, however not as elastic as conventional knitted fabrics. However, an advantage of tricot over knitted fabrics is that tricot is largely immune to laddering and does not crease. Tricot is used to make underwear and many other types of clothing.

Tubular fabric

Tubular fabric is the term used for all circular knitted materials. Tubular fabric permits e.g. production of shirts without side seams.

Twill

Twill is a term used for a specific type of weave. All twill weaves are balanced weaves.

Twill

Twill is short for “twill weave”. It is one of the three main weave construction types for woven fabrics. Twill weaves are characterised by their diagonal ribs. The best-known twill weave fabric is denim, a blue-and-white jeans fabric.

Twin needle stitch

A twin needle consists of two needles. A twin needle can be used to sew two parallel seams simultaneously on the top side of the fabric, while the lower thread creates a zigzag stitch.

Twisted terry cloth

Heavy terry cloth gets its open-mesh structure through a pile warp added to the weave in addition to the usual warp and weft threads. This creates a loop. To create twisted terry cloth, the yarns are twisted prior to weaving. Twisting the yarns makes the terry cloth firmer, gives it a better handle and makes it more durable than conventional heavy terry cloth. Twisted terry cloth combines good water absorption with great durability. This makes it highly suitable for long-term use.

Twisted velour

Velour is a material with a soft, velvety surface. Twisted velour has a firmer handle, as the loop threads are twisted. It also provides a great massaging effect.

U

unbrushed

Textiles referred to as unbrushed were not roughened on the inside.

uncoated

Uncoated is often used in the context of pantone dyes.

Unisex

Unisex is a term for clothing that is not sex-specific. This clothing can be worn by men and by women.

Used Look

Used look clothes look like they have been worn before. Artificial holes, torn sections, washed-out colours and frayed seams are used to create this look.

V

Velcro fastener

Velcro is the name of both a company and a brand. The Velcro group is a leading manufacturer and innovator of hook and loop fasteners. As there are many imitators, the company frequently informs consumers in its advertising, product literature and marketing campaigns that not all such fasteners are original Velcro brand products.

Velour

Velour is a material with a soft and velvety surface. Velour often loses its pile over time, as the pile is cut and lies loosely in the fabric. Attempts are made to prevent this happening by incorporating artificial latex dispersions in the fibre bond.

Velvet

Velvet is a fabric that has an overlying integrated fibrous pile. The pile is short, with a maximum length of two to three millimetres. Velvet is soft to the touch but is somewhat harder than velour or plush fabric, due to its short pile. Velvet was originally produced from  silk, but nowadays it is made from either cotton or chemical silk velvet.

Vienna seams

Vienna seams run on both sides of jackets and dresses in an arched formation up to the arm opening and have a light downward swing. This results in an outline that is close to the figure but without actually tracing it. Vienna seams are also employed in gents' clothing, where they are used to create dividing seams in blazers.

Vintage

Vintage means old or old-fashioned. The term is often applied to antique objects. A distinction is made between items that are actually old and those that are simply made to appear old.  In the textile trade, mention is often made of the vintage style. It is close to the used look,  as it also makes use of frayed edges and washed out colours. New fashions based on designs from earlier eras are also described as vintage.

Viscose

Viscose looks similar to cotton but is actually a chemically produced fibre. It is not an artificial fibre, since it is made from a natural base material - cellulose. The fashion industry uses the fibre as artificial silk. Viscose has a light and loose fall and a typical sheen.

W

Water column

The water column is a unit of measurement. It is used for the impermeability of fabrics such as functional and rain clothing. It indicates the size of the water column that can rest on the fabric before it will begin to let moisture pass. For instance, a “1000 mm water column” corresponds to a pressure of 1kg/dm³. Fabric is regarded as waterproof from a specific value (rain clothes 1,300 mm, top tents 1,500 mm and tent floors 2,000 mm according to DIN).

Water vapour permeable

Water vapour permeable fabric is breathable. It allows water vapour to escape.

water-proof

Water-proof fabric does not let any water through.

water-repellent

If a textile is water-repellent, water will roll off the surface and cannot enter the textile interior. However, water-repellent clothing is not water-proof. Staying in (heavy) rain for a long period will make water-repellent clothing wet. The ability of clothing to repel water is measured using the theoretical value of an X mm water column. However, other factors such as the type of water exposure, the water pressure and the duration of exposure also play a role.

wind-proof

A wind-proof piece of clothing does not let wind pass through.

Woven terry fabric

Woven terry fabrics belong to the category of real pile fabrics. Almost all terry fabrics used in bathroom textiles are woven terry fabrics. Terry fabrics are made on special weaving machines, with the loops created during the weaving process. The characteristic loop formation is achieved due to the weft thread running across the loops during weaving. Heavy / woven terry cloth and conventional terry fabrics are fundamentally different. Although these fabric types resemble each other, the techniques used to manufacture them are different: In heavy / woven terry cloth, the loops are lifted up by a weaving process. This makes the fabric fluffier than smooth conventional terry cloth.

WRAP standards

WRAP stands for Worldwide Responsible Accredited Production and is an independent American organisation. The organisation aims to improve working conditions in fashion industry factories. The WRAP standards include: Prohibition of forced labour and child labour, prohibition of harassment and abuse, payment of legal minimum wage including social benefits, guaranteeing health and safety at the workplace, etc.

X

Y

Yarn-dyed

Yarn-dyed textiles are those produced with yarns that that are dyed prior to weaving or knitting. These yarns are frequently used for textiles that have to be particularly colour-fast and wash resistant.

YKK zip

YKK is a company that was founded in 1934 and is one of the leading manufacturers of fastener systems. Since 1936, the company has produced zip fasteners. The term YKK is regarded as a sign of quality in the textile industry regarding the use of zip fasteners.

A yoke is a piece of trim integrated to a piece of clothing.

Z